stays for anglaise

I did get some sewing done this weekend. I had to make changes to the stays for the anglaise dress for Kristine.
First i had to make a new stomacher, because the other one was two big in the bustline, and i also sewed the stomacher to the sides of the stays because they crumbled together when i laced the front.
Now they keep their shape. Also i had to cut off some of the underarms and also the back was two long. So this is going to be strapless stays.
Now i am ready to drape the anglaise dress, thats a wonderfull thing to have the stays done.
Can anybody explain to me why my pictures gets "Two fat" when i flip the picture in my corel draw program? I always resize and edit my pictures in that program, but for instance the photos of the stays i just did, got very fat to look at, they are much more slender in reality?
Perhaps i should skip photograph pictures by turning the angle of my pictures?
By the way the bumroll i have made this time, isnt biggest in the back but on the sides, its going to be interresting to see how it ends up.

Bjarne from a cold frosen and very windy Denmark, its freezing cold outside, glad to be home again in the warm flat.

more silk winding done.

Just compleated my 4th box of Eterna Stranded Silk thread, just with blue, started number 5 and realise i need 4 more boxes to compleate my Eterna skeins. I have 130 skeins in each box.
Number 5 is going to be filled with turquise greens.
Then i have 10 boxes with Souzhou China Silk and 10 with Eterna. Then its the end of all that winding..............
Hope to get a lot of sewing done this weekend.

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my day off.

Started early this morning, was expecting my clening help to come, he had promised to come between 11 and 13 hours. -rang me up at 11 and told me he would be late and first be able to come at 15 hours. So i cancelled him, because i had other things to do than waiting for him.
So on i went and made the cleaning myself, cleaned also the birdcage for my 2 badgies. Then into a bath and get some clean clothes. Off to the hairdresser (its a drop in hairdresser, with no time schedule) a lady was having her hair dyed, so it took a while before it was my turn. Then away to get the 2 last boxes i had ordered, nr 11 and 12 for my embroidery threads. Lunch at Burger King and on my way to the fabric store where i was going to get mock up callico, i met a lady who i was on the same embroidery course with this last fall. Was very nice to meet her and we had a little chatter at the street. She was in fact on her way down to the same embroidery shop to buy some knitting yarn.
Then i went and baught the mock up callico, a bolt wich was quite heavy to carry under my arm and then to the metro and hurry home.
Well its now late afternoon, and i am finally going to make a little sewing, but hey this is not what i had expected to do this tuesday on my day off.
So its going to be easy sewing work the rest of the day, making more edging for the anglaise, this time with a band a little narrower for the neckline of the dress.
There is a little photo at the homepage of the trimming:


braided baste

I am looking for the material you can get in endless and you can sew it together to make strawhats.
Does anybody know where i could buy this online? I know it sounds strange, but its because i dont know the right name for it.
Would be very happy if anybody could help.



I have finally settled with the anglaise. Its going to be a very typical early anglaise, with a hip vollume, center front fastening,trim in the neck and on the sides of the oveskirt, a ruffle at the skirt, and ruffled cuff endings at the sleaves. I use an ivory rococo rayon ribbon in the edge of the trimmings, handsewn on off cause and the collour of the dress is the khaki taffeta.
I played with trimmings yesterday, and i make gathered in the center pleats, that looks like small bows.
I am glad i finally setteled with a solution. Today i am going to cut out lots of strips for the trim, its so cosy to sit and make that, and i can watch movies on dvds. I have more than 30 meters of the ribbon,so it should be plenty.
Oh and very dangerous, they opened a 5 star cake and chokolate café just across my street. I read the newspapers and they had an article of it, giving it 5 stars. I had had a look in the window, and it looked soo yummy!


Fabric difficulties

I am, as i have mentioned earlyer, sick and tired of those silk taffeta collours, i cant get inspired to do anything with them, simple as that, and in stead of keeping on to loose time and inspiration, i have chosen some other collours. I have never made a dress with 2 different collours, well i have made jacket and skirt, but i want to see if i can manage to get inspired to make something of these 2 collours:

Either i want to make a francaise with an underskirt in the Water Lily collour and overdress of the Tint Green, or an early anglaise with lots of trim on it.
Could be interresting to make the trim of the overdress with the opposite collour, and vise versa with the skirt.
I never understand why i ordered home those stupid tan and brown-green colloured taffetas, perhaps i can use them in the future for some redingotes, most suited for that.
I will sertanly pack the ugly collours away, to the bottom of my stash.
Well i have 7 meters of the Tint Green, but only 1,5 meter of the Water Lily colloured, but its James Hare silk taffetas, and its their range of collours, so i think i am going to get them a call and ask them to send me some more Water Lily.
This photo of the collours, the Water Lily and the Tint Green is much brighter, in reality its a little darker...............


(no subject)

Today on my day off, i am just relaxing, had a hard week at work.It bothers me a little, that i dont feel inspired at all with the anglaise dress i am going to start, i think its the collour of the silk taffeta, it gives me little inspiration. I give myself this week to deside if i should go and look for other collours.
I have this morning finnished the one side of the tambour fichu, only the tambour work, but its getting along very nicely. Its such a wonderfull fabric to work with, i have ordered 10 meters of it.
Here is a link to the fichu, with the latest progress:
In a while i am going to pull myself together to go to the haircutter, i really need it!

Anglaise / fichu

Must admit that the only thing i have "done" with the anglaise i am starting is that i found a lovely fashion print i want to make it from. And i am going to make the petticoat of taffeta, but i am having a layer of cotton voillé on top of it in white. The frill also a voillé is going to have small painted spots on it, and the front pannels made in large puffs, the same. The overdress is tan colloured, and the skirt white. The spots are going to be bluish turquise.
Besides making this dessition, i have worked on the fichu, i have embroidered the corner and on the right side, i am on the 2.nd pattern repeat. This is only for the tambouring, the shadow work is made after the tambour.
I have cleaning help again tomorrow on my day off. Hope i get the time and the quiet, to start making the toillé and a bum roll.
Hohenstein told me yesterday of the Margaretha Helms embroidery patterns wich are online now on V&As archive. I downloaded all of them yesterday, there were also some lovely other patterns made of an english victorian lady there. Lots of inspiration to have, thanks for reminding me Hohenstein!


court dress

One of the issues i have with the court dress i am going to make is the problem with the tabs. I hate when the gap from the skirt to the bodice is seen, and the tabs are going to lye on top of the skirt.
This problem was solved in one example with the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena. Janet Arnold says that the bones were made thinner in the tabs, half as thick as the body bones. I cant do that with my modern boning.
So how could i make the same?
I thoaght about that i maybe could glue on strips of ridgeline to the boning, so that i have ridgeline at the tabs alone?
Making a fully boned bodice with tabs is a huge work, so i would like to make a nice solution.
Does any of you have any good ideas?
Making the tabs thinner, makes the tabs go over the skirt more smoothly.